Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello out there,

I recently picked-up a 2005 Yamaha Bruin 250 for the wife. When I went to check it out, it started on first pull, idled nicely, drove it around, essentially no problem. The previous owner had recently put in a new Chinese made carb, and all seemed well. I got the Bruin home, unloaded it, and fired it up. Started to drive it around and noted that it would idle fine, but would bog and whitish smoke would come out of the exhaust when throttle was applied. Did some research online and there was talk of possibly a stuck or bad ring, bad oil, or leaking head gasket. Recommendations were to first change out the oil before proceeding further. I changed out the oil and put in 10W-40 synthetic with 20% Marvel Mystery oil ( was recommended on a couple of sites, but not sure if this was the best idea). The old oil in the machine was thick and black, obviously not having been changed in a long time. I also put is a new plug. After starting up the machine, it idles fine with no smoke. I can even drive it around in first gear at low RPMs with no smoke or bogging. If I increase to about 1/2 throttle or shift into second gear, it starts to smoke (whitish), bogs and dies. I've check the plug, and there appears to be black oil residue on it. I am not sure where to start, as I am not sure if it is one issue or a combination. I've seen four strokes drive around burning oil and not bogging. There appears to be some correlation between the bogging and the smoking. I am not sure where to go with this next. Do I swap out the oil with the Marvel Mystery oil in it for pure synthetic? Do I try putting in 20W-50 to see if this resolves the issue? I half question if the reason that the ATV drove fine when I tested it was that the old oil was so thick and dirty that it could not leak past the rings. Or am I looking at performing a top end rebuild with new gaskets and rings? Total frustration here with a new machine to me. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted

I looked at the air filter and thought it looked fairly clean, but to help clarify if the air filter was a problem, I took the ATV out for a spin without the air filter. Obviously this was part of my issue, as now at least the ATV does not die with acceleration and I was able to upshift through all the gears without dying. Overall, about 70% improvement. Thus said, it starts to bog at higher RPMs, and again, this was related to a white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I think my next step is to change the oil again and put some good stuff in without the Marvel Mystery oil and then try tuning the carb. If once I get the new oil in and have the carb tuned, and there continues to be white smoke, I think the next step will have to be a top end job.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By AnthonyT
      In search of my first ATV? What are good older 4x4 models?
    • By Frank Angerano
      So I decided to pick up a small trailer if I could get one for the right price.  I found this one for a few hundred bucks on Craig’s list.  It is  a galvanized trailer which is exactly what I was looking for. The wood was shot and needed some minor repairs which I could care less about as long as the chassis was good. 
      I striped it down and put a new deck on. I had some vinyl realtree graphics that I had laying around so I added them to the fenders which I think worked out well. Very happy with this little guy.  
      I'm having the iron workers at my jobmake me up a few lightweight side rails that will have a 22 degree bend in them to accommodate the tires that slightly hang over the edge and will incorporate some tie down points as well. 








    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Mhatayas
      What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker 

    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
×
×
  • Create New...