Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

I am reviewing the differential of my bayou 220 and I came across two situations:

1 - How can the final drive roll be changed? in the manual it shows that the part can be disassembled, but not to the point of being able to change the bearing;
2 - the differential pinion has a gap, so I would like to know if it would need adjustment or if it is so.

I put a photo and a video to show

WhatsApp Image 2021-03-07 at 18.29.09.jpeg

Screenshot_14.png

Posted

Yeah, that pinion bearing is toast, glad you caught it before it ruined the pinion and ring gear.  As far as the intermediate bearing on the prop shaft, it looks like that's not something that's intended to be changed since the manual says replace the prop shaft instead of replace the bearing.

Posted

If you can order the new bearing you should be able to pull the cv apart. There should be a big snap ring just inside the cup on the big end. Should be able to get it out with a pick. Then once apart the should be a snap ring on the end of the shaft to slide the cage and everything off. Then the bearing should come off. Then just get a cv joint boot kit with the grease and new bands. The parts diagram might be able to help locate the snap rings. If nothing else you are looking at getting a new shaft right now, so even if you break the cv joint you really are not out anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

@MarkinAR @Robert Stutesman

So, I've been researching here in Brazil and the part really has to be disassembled, it's the way it was explained, I'm going to take it to a mechanic and ask to disassemble it, here in Brazil we call that part omokinetic: D

As for the pinion I will ask a mechanic to dismantle it too, it is a system very similar to that of a truck differential, as I have experience with this I found it very strange and I will fix it, I hope it is only the bearing that is inside who presented this slack, in the end is compensating to dismantle the parts because I am finding these problems to solve (which would end up in bigger problems)

I'm thinking of posting a topic with photos and talking about my experience in this restoration: D

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By neilroy87
      I have a 1990 Bayou 220 that runs pretty well for it's age--needs a new muffler, but sounds tough.    Have had to start with a pull cord since I got it, and recently started troubleshooting the start button.  Finding a lot of information on this issue in the forum, but haven't been able to chase it down yet.  Got a new battery, new starter solenoid, and going to replace the starter relay this week, but not convinced that's going to do the trick, since I can't get the neutral light on when turning the key on.  I can start it by jumping the solenoid, but the 2 black wires to the relay do not activate the starter.  Bad ground or a short somewhere?  Is there a good way to just test the ground?
    • By sugrbuzz
      Looking for a service/owners manual PDF
    • By kaidella
      Bought 4 wheeler for kids. Used to run and soon as it was put in gear it died. I have put new carburater, new plug and battery. The neutral light won't come on. I replaced the solenoid, then the positive battery cable and today put new relay assembly on. Still no neutral light. Not getting any juice and I don't know why.
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By dstoltey
      I have a 1992 Kawasaki Bayou, and every time I try to replace the fuse on the starter relay, it blows immediately. I have replaced the battery, and have exhausted all of my ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...