Boondocker Nitrous Kit
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By Coyote251
I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot.
So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem.
Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.
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By Eisaks777
hello, i have bpr bombaradier rally 200 2007 which has a lot of gasoline in the oil sump, it is 4 stroke. Has anybody had problem like this and which can be the cause and how to fix it. i rode it today at -2 degrees celcius if it helps.
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By Snick
Bought the project a few weeks ago with weak and intermittent spark. I could smack the CDI box with a screwdriver and it would work fine for a few days. Now, the smack trick is not working and machine is running awful with the weak spark and will most often not fire enough to turn the engine over through combustion (cranks very good). I ordered the GY6 CDI to see if I can get it going again as these CDI boxes are way too expensive even used. battery is fully charged and charging very good.
Wondering if anyone knows how the GY6 (6-pin AC) CDI would wire to this machine. Attached is the electrical diagram. My confusion is with the green and orange wires sharing the 2-pin connector and the Blk/Red wire that runs to the magneto solo. How would I get AC power to the CDI through pin 1 on the GY6 when the CDI has two wires to the pickup-myabe just try one (orange then green) at a time?
^PINOUT:
5 6
2 4
1 3
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By Ejwill
I put a new carb on my trx500fe which I have done before on other models, but this foreman was a real pain, takes forever to get to the carb. Anyway I got the new one installed . I also changed the choke cable while I had it this far. When I turned the gas back gas started running into the air filter box. I did have trouble with the choke cable, it didn’t seem long enough to run where the old one did and the elbow that came with the new carb had more of a 90 on the angle. It didn’t feel like it was binding but I don’t know if the valve was seated on the valve seat. The choke pushed in smooth but who knows what happened in side the valve body. I don’t know if this could be the problem or not I hadn’t run the it just turned the gas back on. Appreciate any help, hint, hint Mech and GW or anybody else. Deer season is over in a little over a week. My power chair won’t make it down those muddy roads. Thanks again.
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