Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Originally had my griz600 stop running and then wouldn’t start ! After testing all coils , valve lash , compression (115psi) and all tested ok I bought a used cdi . After cdi install it still wouldn’t start (no spark) ! So even though the stator , pulse/trigger and charge coils check within good range I decided to switch the stator etc ! It started but It is very unresponsive on throttle and acts like it is running in 2 Different spark timing ! With slight throttle it will take off good but instantly go into a very different running mode with no power like timing very retarded but it will switch back to running good for short period then bad again !  Since I replaced the stator and it started I then decided to install the cdi I replaced and it did the same thing ! Also I noticed the Used cdi I Took off had a capacitor that had swelled and extruded from the back of the cdi . I had always heard and I believed that when these CDIs go bad they machine will quit and will not run . Is that true ? I also checked the cam/valve timing and its ok ! Checked with timing light and it does fluctuate on idle ! I am thinking I have 2 bad CDIs . I also switched the trigger Coil wires and would not start then . Man , this thing ran good before and I am confused ! Video below may help !

Edited by Brent Mason
Posted

Have you  checked for a loose or corroded  connection ? There  may also  be a carb problem causing it to go  lean when you open the throttle .. Have you checked it for contamination, plugged jets or  a faulty diaphragm?

Posted

Well took carb off and everything looked great on it ! Put back on and started but same misfiring . It did a big backfire and quit and wouldn’t start ! Put a sparkplug on plug wire and has good spark when cranked over so it could have jumped timing . Going to tear it down and check cam timing and everything . Things like this become a challenge to fix and I always seem to get them !! I’ll post later .

Posted

The rough running two timing modes got my attention.  I had the strangest rough running on my 06 700. Did it when I activated the 4 wheel lock.  Didn't notice indicator flashing when it did this at first.  Turns out it is supposed send erratic  signal to coils  as a rev limiter  while not fully engaged to protect itself.  Dirtiest running I have ever experienced.  As soon as it engaged fully the lamp stops flashing and runs fine.  I don't see how these engines could jump valve timing unless the chain and sprockets are worn beyond recognition.  Good luck.

 

Posted

I don’t think there is a reverse limiter and I’m not sure there is a rev limiter at all on this old griz! As expensive as this particular cdi is used ones are hard to find . I am kind of amazed someone hasn’t tried an alternate cdi from a different model ? Timing advance may be the only hold back ! Most all the other CDIs I’ve studied have the basic stator/pulse/power wiring scheme . Surly somebody on here has tried a different cdi ?? 

Posted

I seen that video and am considering doing that if after done doing rings , new timing chain it runs the same way ! Waiting for parts but the engine is in very good shape , no cyl ridge , checked valves and good , timing chain loose so we’ll see . Was a little worried that the chinese deal wouldn’t do the spark timing advance as I think stock CDIs do . 

Posted

Well all back together and started ok but ran like crap still ! Took cdi off and it fried it just like the other one I had on it ! Is there anything that could be frying the CDIs ! In pics you can see where a capacitor bubbled and melted whatever the stuff is ! The other pic is the 1st cdi and it bubbled same as the latest one ! I spent hrs digging the stuff out to see what size the capacitor was but wrap on cap melted when using acetone ! I think I’m going to try the Chinese 6 wire cdi ! These Grizzly600 CDIs are very expensive ! 

D14C0B54-3D28-460D-BF25-75D4D5728126.jpeg

7EDCC2F1-EBB8-4892-A0B4-292B16425835.jpeg

Posted

How is the battery?  Seems like some of the Yamaha's use the battery as a capacitor, essentially lowering the system voltage to 12ish volts.  Without a battery or with a bad battery it may be dumping 14-17V into the system and burning components.

If the battery isn't the issue then I'd shuck the plastics and start running down the wiring harness from the battery forwards.  It's either a jump in voltage or a direct short to ground that's burning the CDI.  Curious though why it wouldn't pop a fuse if it's a direct short...

Posted

I just zapped another piece of electronic equipment connecting it hot, they wont tolerate arcing during hookup. knew better. Also the type capacitor you are looking at is an electrolytic.  Has the insulating material between plates  grown or etched on chemically. they wont tolerate reversed polarity, if that helps.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By Tinkeringreg
      Hi my name is Greg and I just acquired a free 2000 yamaha kodiac 400 4x4 with the ultramatic transmission that does not run. I plan to get it going and use it around my property

    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Kawasakibayounospark
      any one know much about how this system works. Replaced voltage regulator cid box coil pickup coil have power to cid box none out to coil any thoughts. This is cid box number three 
    • By carkivey3
      i just picked this up. was told ran fine but overheating issues led to replacing head gasket and head. has not ran since. he is not a mechanic but helped someone else who he could not get back to finish job, got aggravated and put up for sale. i was thinking timing issues. i have 110-120psi on all 3 cylinders so i think valves are correct. dont know about distributor yet. however i have no spark. i have no power going to ignition coil. tried to follow white wire but gets lost in wire harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram? can anyone tell me what conditions have to be met before starting. motor turns over so i would think all safeties are met but you never know.
×
×
  • Create New...