Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I cleaned the carb and re installed it. All jets and ports were clean. I drained the gas tank of the three year old fuel and put a gallon of fresh in it. It would then fire up and die on choke. I then removed the carb again and found black goo in the pilot. I mad sure all ports were clear and blew all debris out of the bowl. I am now useing a different tank with a filter until wash the other one. I reinstalled carb and it now kinda runs on choke while sputtering. That was after i toggled the accelerator enough to warm it up. As well as toggling the idle. The air fuel screw is at 2 out like it originally was. There is a video included below. 

I don't know why but the video isn't playing when uploaded. 

Posted

Nice work so far. Always an old tank to send dirt back into the carburetor!! Always get into the habit of putting an in line filter after an old skunky sitting tank.  Anyway I'm sure you did a great job on the carburetor cleaning.  Did you pull the air fuel screw completely out and clean it good? I assume you used pressure to blow out all ports and jets.  Did you mix the two jets up (main and pilot) some carburetors have the jets threaded alike and will fit in the wrong place. Ive done it before.   I know the air fuel screw was set at 2 turns out and being set there would allow the engine to start but go back to the manual and verify the set point on the screw.  Or go 2-1/2 turns out and see what happens or in 1-1/2 etc.  

Double check your choke is operating properly and was put back together the right way. 
 

Lastly two things.  
1. make sure your float is set at the right height. It could  be starving for fuel.    

2. you could have done everything right and all this could be caused by a fouled plug. Put a fresh one in. Don't try and clean its not worth it.   
 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Initially i cleaned the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner. 3year old fould slimey cosmoline was everywhere south of the slide. The needle and seat was stuck and i couldn't get it out. So was the actual needle. The only thing i didn't do was put new parts in the carb. Surprisingly everything cleaned up well. The choke operates fine. The air/fuel screw was good. Thats the only thing i didn't take out when the old tank dumped nasty into the fresh carb. I will check that tomorrow. I also have a good plug setting in the garage for it. Ill try that and the screw tomorrow. I also just ordered a b carb kit. Just in case the diaphragm is cracked. All jets were clear, but the pilot jet is tricky. I had to soak it and take a fine brass wire brush, pull the wire and poke it in the jet, along with compressed air. Still yet its a very tiny hole. It says its a 45. Also, i don't have a manual. Im waiting to download one from here, but idk how or when that will be.

Question: how do you adjust the float height? When i put it back together i made for sure the needle pulls out quite a bit. The only way i could adjust it is bend the tab i guess. 

1. I will check the screw and plug tomorrow.

2. If it doesn't work ill wait on the rebuild kit.

3. Ultrasonic cleaner with half pinsol and water works wonders on carb parts!

Thanks Frank

Also, how do i upload videos? The format from my Iphone must me mest up. It doesn't show the video in the thread.

 

Posted

Take a piece of bicycle brake cable and separate the strands. Use one of the strands to clean any small holes in the jets. 
The float height adjustment is explained in that carburetor cleaning post.  Take a look in there.  
As far as uploading of videos, I'm lost with that.  Maybe @Ajmboy can help.  

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Dumass
      My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area. 
      Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
    • By DPDISXR4Ti
      I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
      The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
      Thanks...
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By P_syko
      Hello all! I’m new to the 4 wheeler world, but not new to the mechanic world. I was a diesel mechanic for many years and last year got into jet skis. I just bought a 1987 Yamaha moto 4 350 and now learning the ins and outs of 2 stroke engines. Looking forward to learning all the things. 
×
×
  • Create New...