Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi. When I press the starter switch, the solenoid clicks and the starter doesn't turn. The battery is good (about 12.6 volts).  I tried shorting the two big bolts on the solenoid with a screwdriver.  I got sparks and the starter didn't turn.  I tried running a booster cable directly to the starter post but all I get is a bunch of sparks.  I connected the positive side of the battery to the post or bolt on the starter.  I connected the negative side of the battery to the frame,  Did I connect everything wrong?  I don't know why I get the sparks.

Thank you

Posted

Your getting the sparks most likely due to only a couple of things.  

1. Bad starter or brushes inside the starter. 

2. The engine is locked up. 

3. The starter gear is jammed up or broken.  

I would pull the starter and bench test it with  a battery.  

  • Like 1
Posted

If  the starter spins freely with power applied to it then it may be good.   But be aware that sometimes it will spin without the load of the engine on it.  So just because it spins in a bench test does not mean for sure it’s good.  Also  try to turn  the motor if there is a pull start.  If not take the spark plug out and one of the side covers off and try to spin the motor by turning the flywheel or clutch. 

 

Posted

I had the brushes replaced about a year ago but you got me remembering more details.  A few months ago, when the starter stopped working, well it didn't just stop working.  It sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging.  Then after a few tries the starter stopped altogether and the solenoid started clicking.  I left it until now. 

I'll remove the starter and bench test it.

I doubt the engine is seized but I guess it could be .  Anyway, the pull start doesn't work.  Could I tow it and jam it in first gear to check if the engine is seized? It's a 4x4 in case that matters.  It would be easier than removing side covers etc.

Thank you for the reply.

Posted

I would take the pull starter cover off and try to spin the engine just to see if it’s all good.  Might  as well repair the pull cord while you’re there.  

I don’t think towing it would be a good to see if the engine spins.  

Stick with bench testing and replacing the starter maybe and go from there. But having the pull cord work is a really good back up in case the battery dies.  So if the bikes worth it then spend the money. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Like Frank said, it will be much easier to turn the engine over from the starter pad with the spark plug removed.

I don't belive push starting works on engines with centrifugal clutches.

  • Like 1
Posted

It has a manual shift transmission but not a manual clutch.  When you put the bike in gear the bike will sit and not move.  When you  hit the throttle the bike starts to move ? That’s the centrifugal clutch  expanding and grabbing.  So you can’t push start it.   

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I finally removed the starter.  It appears to be seized....at least I can't turn the gear with my fingers, which I should be able to do, right?

Do you think the bearings are shot? What else could it be?

Thank you.

Posted (edited)

You  can try  bench testing the starter by connecting the negative  clamp  of a set of jumper cables to the starter case and touch the  positive  clamp to  the  post on the  starter.  Have a very good grip  on the motor . It is powerful  and  it can  torque  out of your  hand if  it  runs .  Best to  clamp it in a vice to do this test if you  have one .

Edited by davefrombc
Posted

You can bench test it. Basically put it on your work bench and put power to the stater for a second.  It should spin.  Black cable on the metal part of the body of the starter and touch the red cable to the lug where the wire bolts up to the starter.  If it does not spin then it’s dead.   Order a new one.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By TravisM
      2001 bayou 220 KLF220A
      Need some help putting a new ignition switch on this thing. I'm not finding homes for all the wires. I can hook up the white wire and brown wire, But the switch has a B/W and Solid Yellow wire i can't find a home for, and there aren't any more wires in the vicinity from the harness that match this, except one red wire with a double female end crimped on, and a few B/Y grounds. None of the wiring diagrams i've founder or have been given match.
      I'm also wondering if i have the wrong switch? some switches appear to have 4 wires and other just 2, the Brown wire and a White wire.
      I'm at a loss here. Thanks.
       
    • By mans
      Were is the neutral safety switch on 03' Kodiak 400 4x4 . How xan i check it to see if it's good for a no neutral light no power to machine. Ty
    • By Gwbarm
      I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again. 
       

       

      IMG_4910.mov   There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by. 
    • By wheeliewayne
      my  2012 big bear 400 is hard shifting  can anyone help me
×
×
  • Create New...