Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am trying to figure out a way to make my high beam include the 2 front lights that come on in low beam mode. As it sits now I need to use the low beam to see the trail in front of me but can't see far ahead. On high beam I can see ahead but miss most of the trail right in front of me. Does anyone know of a kit that would mate the two front lights to the main headlight on high beam ? 

Posted

yes, the high beam is partially blocked on the  area right in front of the Atv by the front storage rack so the trail is not lit up real good there. The low beam lights are below the storage rack so they really light up good right in front. This wasn't noticed until we had an after dark experience going down a very rocky , steep 8 mile trail. Hard to see the next turn , WHOA !!!! 

Posted

Well you can wire the lights to both come on, high beams and low together.  Thats really not a big deal.  But have you ever thought about putting an extra pair of lights maybe LED type ? With a switch or wire them in series with the low beams so you can have the low beams on with the new led’s as well? Bolt on type? 

Posted
47 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Well you can wire the lights to both come on, high beams and low together.  Thats really not a big deal.  But have you ever thought about putting an extra pair of lights maybe LED type ? With a switch or wire them in series with the low beams so you can have the low beams on with the new led’s as well? Bolt on type? 

I would do that to if I were in your shoes.  I am getting an older sportsman 500 with the square headlights....  I'm just gonna do away with the halogen crap and replace them with small light bars (soooo much more light and uses less juice)

  • 3 months later...
Posted

The problem with additional lights is the amperage.   The better brand lights draw much more amperage due to the quality and real lumens it’s labeled to project. 

For instance a cheaper brand light that puts out 1100 lumens (brightness) versus a much better brand that puts out 1100 lumens will have different amperage draws on them.  The cheaper one will draw 1.2 amps per light let’s  just say and the better one may draw up to 2.8 amps.   That will burn up either a fuse or the wiring.  And the switch will burn up because it’s far from the fuse so there’s is more resistance going back to the battery. The wiring harness acts like a big fuse and will start to get warm before the fuse will finally pop doing damage to either a switch, wire etc.  

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Gwbarm
      Have you ever been on the trail and your tire valve goes bad. No way to break down the wheel and replace it. A lot of you probably know about this already i had heard of it but never used one. Just punch out the old one insert and tighten down the nut
       

       

       

       
      So far it has worked very well.
    • By P_syko
      I’m brand new to 4 wheelers and just bought a 1987 Yamaha Moto 4 350. It has good compression and fuel, but no spark. I’ve looked high and low trying to find how to test all the components of the ignition system, but can’t find anything. This has a new CDI box on it, but I suspect it might be the stator. How do I test the stator on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
    • By carkivey3
      i just picked this up. was told ran fine but overheating issues led to replacing head gasket and head. has not ran since. he is not a mechanic but helped someone else who he could not get back to finish job, got aggravated and put up for sale. i was thinking timing issues. i have 110-120psi on all 3 cylinders so i think valves are correct. dont know about distributor yet. however i have no spark. i have no power going to ignition coil. tried to follow white wire but gets lost in wire harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram? can anyone tell me what conditions have to be met before starting. motor turns over so i would think all safeties are met but you never know.
    • By P_syko
      Does the 1987 moto 4 350 have a low oil sensor that kills spark? Or are these too old for that kind of thing? 
    • By Sportsman500guy
      I bought a 1996 Sportsman 500 4x4 about a month ago, and I love it. Unfortunately, I've been experiencing a few problems with the high-range gear. The first problem is that the gear selector will intermittently pop out of high and into neutral. This problem will sometimes occur when starting from a stop and sometimes will also occur while at cruising speed. The last time this happened I stopped and put it back into gear, however, as soon as I tried to throttle the machine would die. I turned it on again with no problems put it back into high and it died again. Once again I turned it on with no problems put it into low instead and it worked fine with no problem. I drove in low down the road slowly for a little and then shifted back into high with no issues. 
         I plan on working on it this weekend and would just like some opinions or feedback from anyone who may have experienced these problems before. I'm very mechanically inclined but im unsure of exactly where to start as this is the first Polaris ATV that I've owned. Any feedback is appreciated and thanks in advance  
×
×
  • Create New...