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Similar Forum Topics
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By beast6228
I've been trying to piece this Lakota 300 back together, slowly. It's been a rabbit hole however. I replace one thing, then it leads to replacing other things. Anyway, When I got this thing I noticed that the hose coming off the camshaft cover wasn't attached to anything, it was just hanging loose. (It's literally just a foot long hose attached to nothing) I figured since it was venting the head it would be ok and I am sure it is.
However, last night I was looking at the service manual and noticed that it mentioned that this atv has a crankcase breather tube as well. Mine does not have one, so I looked at Partzilla and looked at the parts diagram and sure enough, it's definitely supposed to have one. The problem however is, the service manual does not show how it hooks up and the parts diagram only shows the exploded view of the assembly. I just find that kind of strange, nowhere in the manual does it show how it connects. Does it have it connector, attach to a nipple? It just doesn't say and it bothers me that there is a hole there without anything attached to it. If anyone has a Bayou 300 or Lakota 300 with an intact breather vent system and could possibly take some clear photos of it or know how it connects I would be very grateful. I have searched high and low and cannot find any information on it.
Thanks
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By jwh
I am new to this site. Now down to business, I have been given a Kawasaki 220, tires are trashed and it has been setting for a long time. Do I need a battery in it to find neutral? I know there is a neutral switch and if I shift down(7 times????) then up one using the neutral switch I should be in Neutral. As you see I am in a learning curve here ......coments welcome.
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By PIYIRIO
Hi all - I recently had a shop fix this quad and it hasn't been right since. The jug was resealed as it was leaking, the rings were replaced, and the valve stem seals replaced. Shop said the cylinder walls were great so nothing was done there. The motor still smokes, heavily on startup and all but quits once warmed up. Enough that I can live with it if I can fix what I came to ask about. I mentioned this work because since I've gotten it back it seems like it has power but tops out at a much slower speed than before. It's old so I don't have a speedo but I pulled out my phone at it tops out at 25 mph. I know before the work, I was getting up to 45+ mph... It's so bad, my 10 year old daughter is pulling away and straight leaving me in the dust with her governed Polaris 90.
Given the work done, what are some thing I could be the cause of such a drastic difference? I immediately thought timing but the marks appear to match up with a youtube video I found... no idea if it's correct though. It sat in another shop for 2 months and they gave me an $800 quote just for the starter... it pull starts fine.
FYI: I would take it back to the original shop to figure out but I had some issues that make them a no-go for me.
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By exalrod
Hello All !
I am looking for a service manual and wiring diagram for a 2005 50cc Polaris Predator 4 wheeler.
Could anyone help with this?
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