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Posted

Hey Quad crazy! Back again. I recently picked up a Polaris Phoenix 200 that was sitting around in someone's yard exposed to the elements. Bike #6 I may add 😁  As is with all the bikes I buy and fix up and add to my building collection I need a little help with the tech manual for this bike and any input from someone fimilliar with this bike. I'm sure it's going to need a carb rebuild and the usual suspects from sitting around but this is a cool looking bike and would like to hear any feed back good or bad. 

Also any links to buy parts for this bike would help as it needs a new headlight assembly and some small cosmetic items.

Thanks. 

Posted

Thanks brother. I paid $200 lol the guy started at $500, the bike is in great shape and needs a little tlc to bring it back to where it belongs. But I had to drive two hours to get it.  It's a 2005. Going to start the tear down this week. Can't wait to see what's going on inside.  I'm def going to need the tech manual for stator specs engine issues etc.  

 

Posted

So I need a little help. I got the Polaris running and cleaned the carb new plug etc. 

After about 5 to 10 minutes of running the bike started back firing intermittently. Then it shuts down.  Fires right back up same thing.  Plug is black cleaned it same thing. I rebuilt the carb but wondering if it's deeper inside. Or is it a timing issue?? Any help would be appreciated. 

Tbsks.  

Posted

If  it is doing it  without  a  load  on it  (  being driven)  it could be   a restriction  in the  fuel  getting to the   carb .Level  dropping to the  point it  is  running  lean   and then  quits.. after  a   few seconds , enough fuel  reaches the float  bowl  for it  to  run  again for  a short  period..  If  it  is  when  being ridden,  it  might be  a component  in the  ignition system  breaking  down   as  it  heats  up.   Those  are  my two  stab  in the  dark  guesses.

Posted

I feel like it's happening when it gets hot. But what exactly is heating up causing it? I'm going to change carb either way. Going to start with that.  If it continues after that I guess I will go through alll the motions to see what is getting hot. 

Posted

Is there a device that can monitor the spark while the bike is running to see if my spark is dropping out? 

Also when an engine runs out of fuel I've never heard backfiring like that. Normally the engine starves runs rough and eventually shuts down. 

I checked the carb and rebuilt it  fuel is getting where it needs to be.

And lastly I'm thinking that the ignition system is breaking down after the bike heats up. The ignition spark is being  lowered at the plug and a fuel build up in the cylinder head eventually fires and I get the backfire ? Maybe a stator problem? Ignition coil?

 

 

 

Posted

It  could be  a component  in the  CDI  box or  the  coil breaking  down  as it  heats  up .. Capacitors  occasionally  go  bad ..  There  is  a   tester  you  can  get  to  see  if there  is constant  spark.. It  is  a goody  that  goes inline  with the  spark plug wire.  It  has  a  window  you  can see  the  spark  flash  in.  Here  is  a  picture of one version . Search  Google for  "spark tester  for ignition systems"  for  vendors .

Clipboard01.jpg.09d494309c309337efcb78f24d861e91.jpg

Posted

Ok sooooo spark check all good. Great device btw. The carberator had some serious issues. I rebuilt it again today. The air mixture screw seems weird. Almost like it's the wrong one. Anyway definitely improved. Now. I think I found what I believe is a PCV system on this bike ? It runs from the crank case up to the head and to the air filter via a three way box. Found a major break in the hose on that as well (fixed it ) and it calmed down a lot.  Plug still looks a little black. I think a new carb is in order. Anyone know about that PCV system ? 

Posted

I did some research and four out that this bike/engine has an "oil separator". Has anyone heard of this? It's part number 23 on the attached diagram. It has three connecting tubes from the bottom of the engine then to the top and then to the air filter box. What's the purpose?

IMG_3010.PNG

Posted

I did some searching  on  your backfire problem and  dirty  plug... I  don't know  your  year ,  but  according to  other  forums   the  Phoenix  has an  Electric Throttle Control  (ETC) to  protect  against over  revving.

Here  is what  others  had to  say  about it:

It could be something as simple as the throttle cable stretching and getting loose. Newer Polaris machines with the wires going into the throttle control have what they call an ETC control. What it does is activate a rev limiter (the newer ones may cut the spark entirely) if for some reason the throttle sticks partially open. Sometimes if the throttle cable stretches enough, it will activate the ETC even if the throttle isn't stuck. Set the cable free play and see if this helps.
Backfiring can also be caused by too rich fuel mix, as well as several other possibilities, but the most common cause for backfiring in a Polaris I found was excess throttle cable slack causing the ETC to activate.

And  one other's solution :

I am/was getting backfire on my Phoenix 200. I have a 2006, and supposedly that issue was with 2005 and newer, but it happens on mine when releasing throttle from WO... After reading about the ETC, I open the cap to the ETC, and put a shim in there so the contactors don't touch, and BINGO it fixed the issue.... this has to be the cheapest fix I have ever done - 2 cents for a piece of plastic, and 5 minutes for labor. Engine purrs like a kitten, and no backfire on deceleration. I know this is a somewhat of a safety issue, because if the throttle breaks it's suppose make the contactors touch each other causing the engine to go idle speed, but I'll have to take the chance... I'd rather not having the backfire issue... can't b too good for the engine.

Looking for info  on the   oil  separator, brought up  info  that the  crank case  is  vented to the  air box.  The  oil separator  is  supposed to  keep  crankcase  oil  from  being  drawn  into the  air  box. There  is no  pcv  valve.  They  noted  in the forums where it was discussed that   if the  crank case oil  is  a little  too  high oil  could  be  drawn up.   Is  your  air box excessively oily ?..  That  could be    part of the  problem.   From  what  I  read , and  your initial  description, I'd look at the  ETC  if  your  machine  has one.  That sounds the  most  likely  culprit for the  backfire  and   carboned up  plug .

Posted

Awesome reply. It's a 2005 and I am not sure if it has that ETC. I will look when I get back to the bike great info on that. Now onto the crank case vent system. Air box had oil residue inside. Oil level was to high. Drained down to proper level and also found a few broken spots on the tubing. Made all repairs and i feel like it helped out with the bike settling down a bit. Can't wait to check that throttle control.  Now having said all of that I went through the carb twice yesterday blew it out and and sent a small wire through the jets and ports. Also Moved the clip on the needle in the throttle valve but not sure about the factory location of the needle setting. Put in a new throttle cable in as well.

I ran the bike for about a half hour and so far the backfiring had stopped not sure if it's because of the throttle work I did and that is because the ETC is satisfied? I ran out of time and did not have a chance to check pug color hoping it's that nice toasty color we all love to see! 

I will get back to you on the throttle control/revlimiter! 

Thanks a million  great info!

 

Posted

Ok so the rev limiter/etc is on this bike. Took it apart to have a look and mechanically it all seems to work. I jumped the wires and it does its job. So before I went any further I went back to the throttle valve and re adjusted the needle,  setting the clip lower to one click before the bottom. This seemed to clear up a lot of the backfiring issues and the bike is def running cleaner. Plug is better in color but not perfect. 

My only and last concern is the air mixture screw on the carb. It does not seem to do much when I make any adjustment to it as the engine is running.  I've worked on hundreds of carbs and always got a change in the motor as I adjusted.  The adjustment screw looks a little blunt at the tip. Wondering if it's either the wrong screw that was put back in? Maybe it's supposed to be that way? Thinking a complete rebuild kit is in order with new set screws and jets etc. 

I spoke to the previous owner yesterday and he said he took the carb apart not knowing what he was doing and also moved the needle on the throttle valve as well via "a friend that knows a little about carbs" lol. Fml. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
1 hour ago, colin james said:

Found my service manual  and just uploaded it. Will need to download all the chapters to have the complete manual with supplement 

Thanks for sharing! Here it is:

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just picked up nearly the same bike for $150.  However, I need new rings and maybe a bore.  Otherwise it still runs.  All the old machines always need some tlc.

  • 1 month later...

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