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By oxidized_black
View File 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 service manual
Also available on eManualOnline
1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 service manual
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
Engine
The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
Chassis
The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
Size
The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
Basics
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
Features
The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Kawasaki ATV
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By PIYIRIO
Hi all - I recently had a shop fix this quad and it hasn't been right since. The jug was resealed as it was leaking, the rings were replaced, and the valve stem seals replaced. Shop said the cylinder walls were great so nothing was done there. The motor still smokes, heavily on startup and all but quits once warmed up. Enough that I can live with it if I can fix what I came to ask about. I mentioned this work because since I've gotten it back it seems like it has power but tops out at a much slower speed than before. It's old so I don't have a speedo but I pulled out my phone at it tops out at 25 mph. I know before the work, I was getting up to 45+ mph... It's so bad, my 10 year old daughter is pulling away and straight leaving me in the dust with her governed Polaris 90.
Given the work done, what are some thing I could be the cause of such a drastic difference? I immediately thought timing but the marks appear to match up with a youtube video I found... no idea if it's correct though. It sat in another shop for 2 months and they gave me an $800 quote just for the starter... it pull starts fine.
FYI: I would take it back to the original shop to figure out but I had some issues that make them a no-go for me.
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By pastorjeep
Need some feedback here. I picked this machine up with PO saying no spark. I have tried new stator, CDI, and coil. The stator ohms 231 w/r to w/g and .1 red to blue. The coil is .8 primary and 2.53 secondary. I have 12 to the CDI with ign on and the wires from stator to CDI have good continuity. This model only has 12v on or off for ign/kill source. Still no spark?
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