ATV Manufacturer Forums

Good work. I like that you cleaned and inspected the drive system and didn't just condemn it out of hand, and then you got it working. Even if it does need a bit of work after a while it lets you test everything else. It's important we use our discretion when choosing what needs replacing. That's good work..

Well after driving it around a bit and having to replace a stuck thermostat it seems to be running well and has good power I have noticed gear oil coming from the front diff pinion seal area so I guess I'll be exploring that issue sooner than later.

When a carb starts backfiring it's normally because the mixture is too lean. It can be caused by badly retarded ignition timing or tight valve clearance, but mostly it's a lean mixture, especially if it does it more as you open the throttle more. The flooding out the overflow is a different problem..

Well the circumstances should be considered here.. It takes about 20 minutes before the trouble starts manifesting.. A blocked fuel tank breather could cause problems like that. A blocked vent normally causes a fuel shortage as the tank starts to get a vacuum in it and the fuel stops flowing. It can happen though that a blocked vent can cause the carb to flood, but it's normally when the bike gets parked in the sun and the tank pressurises. It is possible though that in this case a blocked vent, despite the fuel being taken out of the tank as the engine runs, is actually letting the tank pressurise as the engine or sun warms the tank up. Check the fuel tank and the carb breather hoses are attached to the right place, and that they are clear.

I've since switched to another carb,I've read online a lot of people switched to smaller carbs due to flooding issues. This worked for me . Switched from the original vm34 to a vm32 from my 85 2wd bike. It was running perfectly, UNTIL, get this : Bike runs for 15mins or so till it gets hot. Then it backfires a bit and makes popping noises through the carb. Then it spitters and cuts out like it don't wanna run . Let it sit for a bit to cool down then starts back up like nothing happened. don't know if this is a fuel pump issue or some sort of electrical or mechanical issue? Man I thought I finally had this bike ready to take on a run. Guess not

it is the coil. Had this happen to me and had a second unit to swap parts. Did everything except for the coil as you need to drain the oil to replace it. If I remember correctly,the coil sent that much.

Thanks for the update! Good work! Glad it s running and driving. Always glad to hear a project getting back on the road.

New belt installed and also did a 25 year overdue service on the primary drive, it was really nasty and corroded. It's working good now. Took it out of the shop yesterday and did some riding around the yard and it seems to be running well. I did track down another electrical issue that I'll take care of this evening. It would lose power to the main switch intermittently and I finally traced that to a terminal in the connector that plugs into the starter solenoid. I'm also going to flush the cooling system and install some antifreeze

Yeah could be that Ww. If the carb's just been off then, yup, the rubber could be split. Good idea. Most of the time though, bad vacuum effects the idle more than it does an engine at revs. If they will start and idle, (even with a vacuum leak), then they will generally rev up and run pretty much as normal. There are exceptions though, such as the carb moving in the rubber, or the rubber flexing and letting air in.

lean pilot....